I fixed the front 6 x9 using the baffle from the old speaker but did not drill new holes in the door, this means i had to cut the screws behind the speaker so it would fit properly. I take it you drilled new holes in the door's sheet metal? Did you do the same thing in the front doors? Questions for you Jim I looked into using the provided Polk speaker adapters to mount the 6 and halves in the back but the holes don't align properly. Honda has been using the same process (in subtraction) since the mid-2000's to use the subwoofer in particular for noise cancelling in Pilots. The difficulty is keeping the AGC from being noticeable. Lexus and others (even GM) have been doing broadband and band-specific AGC for some time now in response mostly to road noise (often calculated by road speed and/or a sense mic), which has lot of low frequency content that masks bass and apparent loudness. #BONGIOVI DPS PRO#On the pro side, we've been doing this for 30 years. Dolby A, B and C was doing this with analog circuits 40 and 30 years ago respectively, with magnetic tape. OK, I'll toss in this nugget of goodness Bongovi is describing "band specific AGC" or "side chain processing". Certainly less dry than saying the loudspeaker/enclosure system Q is over, critically or under-damped. How about we stick with delicious terms like "port hole" (certainly more appropriate than "bung hole"), "rounded", "organic" (pesticide free?), "fuller" and "boomy". Its kinda like engines, there's no replacement for displacement (power in the speakers case) :lol: (well realistically, at a certain point your not going to get much more, but an amp has a large impact over deck power)Ĭlick to expand.What? Ruin this thread with facts, like the last thread I attempted that with?. Not trying to sound harsh, but I see people expect huge changes in sound too often. Honestly I think your expecting a miraculous change/miracle with only a speaker swap. So long answer short, you don't need a port and IMO I wouldn't try to make one. You only added a 10x10 (well really much less since you cut out (pi*~6)in^2 of the material) section, those kits don't really do much of anything, particularly in that area IMO. I use a set of DB401's in my tailgate, and I REALLY like the silk dome tweeters on those, they are very smooth at high volume. Your mainly looking at getting better accuracy/smoother sound with the polks. Remember your running off deck power (I don't know if that bongovi thing is only a DSP or a small amplifier as well, but I can say, if it does have an amp, its very small as the OEM stock speakers power rating is very small), your not going to get much low end added, if any. IIRC most auto speakers are designed to run an infinite baffle design (google if you don't know what it is, AV if you read this correct me if I'm wrong :lol Ported enclosure is a tad more efficient at the low end. Unfortunately, it take more power to recreate the lower end in a sealed enclosure as the cone has to overcome more air-pressure. Ported enclosures can easily sound "boomy". I prefer sealed as its a more "rounded" sound. I've run speakers both ways (I have 6x9's in ported boxes in my garage) and have used them in sealed enclosures.
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